Linda M. Johnson asked:


If you are looking for a unique party favor, guest soap, or maybe just a clever and crafty item to decorate the home with, try this very easy recipe for making a handmade decorative soap that will explode with a lush bouquet of floral fragrance and will impress your guests, gift recipient, or party goers.

You will need the following supplies:
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2 lb Box – natural Glycerin soap found at most craft stores or online – We chose avocado cucumber Plastic soap mold – We chose both square & circle shapes with a flower motif Food coloring – We combined red & blue to make lavender Soap fragrance – We chose a pear berry scent, but you can also mix a variety of different fragrances 1 package of clear lollipop bags – We chose these because of the already built in ribbon 1 piece of decorative scrapbooking paper, 12in. x 12in. 1 piece of plain white scrapbooking paper, 12in.x 12in. – We chose to make our gift tags, but you can also use label stickers instead of making your own Raffia ribbon in a coordinating color – 1.5 to 2 yards, or 15 feet Crafts scissors Hole puncher Glass measuring cup – We used one with a handle for easy pouring Wax paper

Depending on the size of your mold, heat the desired amount of natural Glycerin soap in the microwave.  We used 2 small pieces of soap for a medium size mold.  So, for 2 small pieces heat on high for 10 seconds, then 5 seconds intervals until melted. Note: If you don’t have a microwave, a double boiler can be used.

Add food coloring, 2 – 3 drops per color.  Next, add your soap fragrance, 3-6 drops. Stir quickly and pour in to your mold and let cool (20-40 minutes).  While soaps are cooling, lay a piece of wax paper down on to your work space.  Using your thumbs, apply gentle, constant pressure to release from mold.

Wait 1-2 days until soaps are firm before placing in to the clear bags.  Now, for a few extra special touches, hand address paper gift tags or pre-made labels/stickers and set aside.  Using your craft scissors, cut decorative scrapbooking paper into strips long enough to wrap around the center of your soap.  Once you have determined the size of your strips, cut raffia ribbon the same length leaving enough so ribbon can be tied in to a bow.

If you are right handed, wrap a strip of decorative paper around the center of the soap & hold in place with your left hand.  Using your right hand, wrap the raffia ribbon around and over the top of your strip.  If you are left handed, just do the reverse.  Before securing the ends of the ribbon, we ran it thru the gift tag then tied a bow at the ends.  If you decide to do this step, punch a hole thru the top of your paper gift tag. 

Gently place your nicely wrapped soap in to the clear lollipop bags and nicely tie the ribbon to create a bow.  You now have a truly unique party favor, or unwrapped, an impressive and fragrant home décor item to add to the home. 



DUANE
Meryl Bliss asked:


I’ve always loved crafty people.  The kind that could take a pile of rags and make the prettiest quilt you ever laid eyes on or could make candles in their kitchen that could pass for art.  These people always amazed me.  So when I was able to make something that had other people commenting on how neat my creation was, I was thrilled.  True, my creation is one that is in most every home but not all are made by hand.  My craft that I perfected was soap making. 
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Soap making, once learned, is not a hard thing to do and it leaves you with something that the whole family can benefit from.  One of my favorite soaps to make is goat’s milk soap but there are endless variations that you can try.  Many people like to try soap making using glycerin as it is easier to find and can make some really pretty bars.  If you get really creative you can add colors and fragrances to create soap as pretty as you would find in any sore.  But you don’t have to stop at just colors and fragrances.  There are many additives you can add to your soap to be for function or beauty such as oatmeal, herbs or flowers.  The list is endless.  If you want to start soap making to make soaps for kids, you can make glycerin soaps with a toy hidden inside for the kids to find.  Thinking outside the box is something that can also pertain to soap making.

One of the main things that you need to remember with soap making is safety.  Many of the soaps that people make have an ingredient in them called Lye.  Lye is something that has been around for centuries and is one of the oldest types of soaps known.  This ingredient can be made by filling a hopper full of ashes and then pouring water through it and catching the water that comes out.  Of course there are many types of Lye available online or in hardware stores making it easier than ever to make Lye soap.  But do remember, even though Lye doesn’t look all that scary, when you mix it with another ingredient it becomes extremely hot.  When this reaction takes place you can become burned and if it splashes up in your eyes, it could cause blindness.  So safety is something that doesn’t take all that much time or money but can really pay off in the end. 

Once you have mixed your ingredients and placed your liquid soap into the molds, patience will have to kick in.  This soap will need to be allowed to dry for approximately three weeks before it is ready for daily use.  Allowing the soap to “cure” is necessary to add time to the life of your bar.  If you were to use the soap right away it would turn to mush in a short amount of time.  I guess you could say that one of the necessary ingredients for soap making is patience as well.  You need your lye or your glycerin, but it’ll never happen without the patience. 



EDDY
Renee Vailes asked:


Cold Process Soap:
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The type of soap my Great-Grandma made is called “Cold Process” soap (commonly referred to as “CP” soap). It is made by combining fatty acids (oils) and sodium hydroxide (lye) together. Fatty acids can be almost any oil - from beef tallow to olive oil to hemp oil. The combinations for making your own personal recipe are endless.

Cold process soapmaking is a combinations of an art and science. The condensed version of this type of soapmaking is that there is a certain proportion of lye (sodium hydroxide) and water to fatty acids that forms a chemical reaction called “saponifaction.” During saponification, the oils and lye mix and become soap - the process takes approximately six weeks to fully complete.  Soap has to harden and dry before it can safely be used.

Cold process soapmaking requires the use of lye (you can’t buy it just anywhere anymore) and the use of safety equipment, such as goggles and gloves. Please do not attempt to make cold process soap without researching the method thoroughly. Cold process soap is known for its hard, long lasting quality. Depending on the oils used, the bar can have great lather (coconut oil has excellent lathering properties), be incredibly mild (olive oil is renowned for its gentle qualities) or be very moisturizing (with the addition of oils, such as shea and cocoa butter or hemp oil).

Tips

Using a stick blender rather than rubber utensils can make the mixture reach trace far more quickly. Measure out your oils before hand to make things move more efficiently. It is difficult to get the soap to trace if the ingredients cool down too much. Both the lye/water mixture and the oils should be no less than 100 degrees fahrenheit each when they are ready to be combined. A large plastic bowl may also be used for the lye/water mixture, rather than glass.

Lye is extremely caustic. Do not make soap with children or pets present. Keep vinegar on hand in case of lye exposure to the skin.



Always wear safety equipment - safety goggles and rubber gloves.



The soap mixture will still be caustic as you pour it into the molds. Handle with care.  



 

Equipment you will need:

A 4-6 cup lye resistant container for mixing lye and water.  This container must be made of stainless steel, glass or heat resistant (212 degrees F) plastic.  It must not be made of aluminum or tin.

Another large heat resistant container or pot (stainless steel, enamel or plastic will work) for mixing the soap

A large saucepan for heating up the oils

Heavy duty rubber spatulas or wooden spoons for mixing

A good quality scale for measuring ingredients (it’s nice to have one in ounces and another in grams if possible)

A soap mold - can be anything from a Rubbermaid(tm) type container to a wooden tray or even a heavy duty cardboard box.  Use your imagination and be on the look out for containers that will make nice molds.  It is adviseable to use something flexible so that the soap will come out easily with a little twist.

Wax paper or a plastic bag to line the molds with to prevent leaks and deterioration of the mold itself.  Replace cardboard molds when warped to avoid unshapely bars. We line our molds with wax paper for ease of  ”plopping” out the soaps.

 

 

Two thermometers for checking the temperatures of the oils and the lye solution - the type used for candy making will work best (220 degrees F)

Goggles and rubber gloves

Melt and Pour Soap:

 

Technically, all hand made soap is “Glycerin Soap.” In many commercial soaps, all the extra glycerin (formed naturally by the cold process soapmaking method) is harvested from the soap. Thus, all real handmade soap is glycerin rich (since handmade soapmakers don’t take glycerin out of their soap).

In today’s market, the term “Glycerin Soap” is commonly used to refer to clear soap. Generally, the clear soap has extra glycerin added to it to produce a very nourishing, moisturizing bar. Glycerin is a “humectant.” It draws moisture to itself; the theory is that if you wash with glycerin soap, a thin layer of glycerin will remain, drawing moisture to your skin.  But, if the bar is opaque (ie, goat milk soap, etc.) it just has ingredients like milk or herbs that have darkened and thickened it.  The color doesn’t have to be “clear” to be a true glycerin bar that is good for your skin.

Many kinds of soap base can be purchased in large blocks to be melted down, colored and fragranced, and scraped into molds (or used to make loaves of soap to be sliced). This type of soap is called “Melt and Pour” and the artistry of melt and pour is called “Soap Casting.” Melt and Pour is gaining in popularity because of its ease of use. There are no significant safety measures (other than basic common sense - don’t put your hand in the hot soap, don’t cut your finger off with the knife, etc…) needed for soapcasting. Children can do it. It’s a great outlet for creative types. You can stamp, color or mold your soap into anything your imagination conjures up.

Rebatching Soaps:

Rebatching is another form of cold process soapmaking. You make your cold process soap from scratch, grate it up, place it over a heat source in a kettle, (or your microwave) with a little liquid (water works very well), and the mixture melts down into a mushy mess to which you add herbs or colorants and fragrances. This method is often used to preserve the scent or the healing properties of some essential oils.  You can also rebatch to save that “ugly bar” of cold process soap that you can’t give away.

What you Need for the method shown below:

A cheese grater boiler or broiler bag with twisty tie a large pot (like you’d boil spagetti noodles in) a pound or two of used or “ugly” soap shavings 4 ounces of liquid (milk, water, tea, etc.) a mold for soap - NOT made of aluminum, zinc, copper, Teflon, or iron (we prefer WOOD) wax paper stainless steel or heavy plastic large spoon rubber/latex gloves pot holder 

**BOIL IN BAG METHOD**:  One of the most foolproof methods I have found for rebatching soaps is to shred your soap base or bars with a cheese grater or other device. 

I usually make 2 lbs at a time to keep it simple, add approx 1/2 cup of water or milk.  Use more liquid if the soap is really hard.  Cured soap will take more liquid to melt it with.  Fresher soap base will need less liquid to melt.  Use a broiler bag or boiling bag (like you cook a turkey, chicken or roast in) and tie it shut. 

Bring a large pot of water (about 3-4 inches of water will do, just enough to float your bag of soap) to a slow, bubbly boil.  Just steaming, is my advice.  Place the bag in the hot water for about 15 minutes (set your timer and don’t walk away too fast!).  Take the bag out of the water when the timer goes off and using a pot holder (be careful because it’s HOT) kneed the bag until the soap has fewer lumps.  Place back in the pot for 10-15 more minutes.  Keep an eye on it, it will get darker and liquid like pudding. 

When it is uniformly melted, open the bag carefully (my husband and I do this as a team) and add your colorants, fragrance or essential oils, herbs, flower petals, whatever blows your skirt up… seal the bag again or hold it firmly by the open end and knead the contents again until mixed.  

Cut the end of the bag off, like a pastry bag… and place over your molds.  Squeeze or let the soap run out (depending on the size of the hole you cut, it will come out really fast or really slowly).  It will set up in approx 24 hours.  You can then pop it out of the molds to dry on wax paper for 1 day to 3 weeks, depending on how long it takes for it to set up, you can use it pretty quickly.

PLEASE CHECK OUT OUR SOAPS AT OUR SHOP ON BONANZLE!  LOW PRICES ON HANDMADE SOAPS, EVEN SOAPS FOR OUR DOGGIE FRIENDS!  We have other handmade beauty products, like creams and lotions, lip balms and spa clay ****** masks!  Check it out at http://www.NeeNeesSoapShop.com.  Thanks!



BOBBY
Feb
04
Filed Under (Crafts) by Kert
Iris Fuchs asked:


Have you ever wondered what soap is, what ingredients it is made out of and how it is made? How do you think our ancient ancestors got clean? Did they use soap at all? How has soap evolved over the centuries to be the conventional soap we know of today. In modern day, there are so many types of soap available in virtually all shapes, colors and scents.

Prehistory

It is believed that prehistoric man used only water as a cleanser and purifier.

Ancient Babylon



In ancient Babylon (2800 B.C.), wood ashes were burned with animal and vegetable fats and this substance was used to cleanse and treat skin disease. It was also used for a shiny hair look and as hair nourishment.

The Greeks



The Greeks were known to wash themselves with clay pumice and sand which stimulated the blood circulation in the body as well as removed dirt.

The Romans

Soap got its name when the Romans at ‘Mount Sapo’, a popular location for animal sacrifices, discovered it. Rain mixed the animal fat residue (tallow from cattle) with the burned wood on the clay and a chemical reaction occurred. Women living on the banks of the Tiber river discovered that clothes which they washed using this substance were much cleaner and cleaned with much less effort.

The Early Americans

The early Americans made soap using a process known as ‘Cold Process’, which yielded soap comprised of animal fat and lye extracted from wood ashes (potassium hydroxide). The substances were mixed in the right concentrations and animal fat would be added along with steady stirring. Because of the time it took the soap to cure, soap makers would commonly repeat this process twice a year.

Modern Day



Today, natural soap is most commonly made using the Cold Process method where lye (a base) is added to a vegetable alkali (an acid) such as palm oil, coconut oil, or olive oil, which causes the chemical reaction known as ‘saponification’. When the mixture becomes the desired consistency, it is poured into a mold. The bars are then removed from the mold after setting (approximately 24 to 48 hours). They are restacked, covered and left to cure. As in the old days, the curing process can take anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks depending on the formula. In modern times, animal fats are typically no longer used in this process since vegetable oil based soaps were found to be chemically superior and can be of higher quality than soaps made with animal fats. Vegetable oils are more readily absorbed by the skin, while animal oils have been found to clog pores and aggravate certain skin conditions, such as eczema.

Summary



It is remarkable that the basics of the soap making process are essentially unchanged over the course of the past 2000 years. Of course, the advent of modern day technological advancement, along with our understanding of chemistry has made the soap making process much more accurate and a refined science and art.



RANDALL
Jan
30
C.L. Hendricks asked:


There are only two ingredients required to make soap, yet soap making can be a very time consuming and difficult project. In the old days, soap was made a couple of times per year, sometimes once a year. One of the reasons for not making soap more often was because it was a long-drawn out process.

The two items necessary to soap making are fat and lye. Any type of fat will work but it must be cleaned by a process known as rendering. The fat is placed in a large pot and allowed to melt. Any meat, gristle or hair will sink to the bottom as the temperature rises. The liquid fat is carefully ladled off and stored. If the fat you were using was from a pig those deep fried pieces of skin would be called crackling’s and were considered by many to be a delicacy.

The second item needed in soap making is lye. In the early 1900’s lye, in a dry form, could be found in almost every general store in America. Today it is not so easy to find. However, lye made from wood ash is called potash and can be made easily at home.

You will need two containers; one large one and a smaller one…the larger the better for the bigger one. A 55-gallon plastic barrel or drum is best for the larger container and a drywall bucket is large enough for the smaller one.

The larger container needs to be placed on a stable platform higher than the smaller one is tall. Gravity will do the most of the work. Into the large bucket you will place a layer of packed straw. You will then add ash from a wood fire. The ash from fruit trees and hardwoods will produce the strongest potash. Some of the old time soap makers would use only one type of ash. They learned that certain species of wood produced the strongest potash. The stronger the potash the better the soap will be.

About a gallon of water is then added to the large container. A small hole is put in the bottom of the bucket and the smaller bucket placed underneath.  Some people allow the water to sit in the larger bucket before it’s drained off. A cork or stopper may be placed in the hole. Add a small amount of water daily until you have a working potash barrel. About a half a gallon will do. As the water drips down through the ash and straw it leaches out the alkaline chemicals in the ash. That is what potash is: a basic acid.

Acid when combined with fat produces soap. It’s a basic chemical reaction. The problem with making soap is the unpredictable strength of the potash. Potash suitable for soap making should be able to float a raw egg so that only a portion of the shell about the size of quarter should show above the liquid. If the potash does not float the egg it is poured back into the large container and allowed to drip through again. It takes up to a week or more to get a gallon of potash. Ashes are continually added to the larger container. Eventually the large container will need to be emptied and new straw and ashes added.

Once you have potash strong enough to float an egg you are ready to begin the time consuming job of boiling the potash and fat together until it reacts sufficiently to make soap. Determining how much fat to add to potash is the difficult part. Too much potash and you will be stirring the mixture over a hot fire or stove for many hours, too little and you will end up with useless fat. It is better to have too much potash than too little. The most commonly used ratio is 1:1. Equal amounts of both fat and strong potash.

The soap that you are used to seeing is not what this process will produce. Until salt became an inexpensive item all homemade soap was the consistency of jelly. Homemade soap of bygone eras was like today’s shower gel. To make soap hard salt must be added at the end of the process. The addition of salt allows the soap to set.

If you add salt to your soap mixture you will need to place it in a pan, box or mold to harden. If you do not add salt you can use any container to hold your soap. Just remember that it’s easier to dip the liquid soap than to pour so choose a container with a large top opening.

Ground herbs, nut hulls, scented oils and colorings can be added once the process is complete but before you pour the soap into your containers. Hardened soaps are usually allowed to cure for a couple of weeks. Once cured the new soaps are cut and ready for use.



ALLAN
Jan
26
Filed Under (Crafts) by Kert
Iris Fuchs asked:


What is soap? Soap is a substance that’s used for cleansing and it is made when a chemical reaction occurs between lye (Sodium Hydroxide) and fat.

Soap got its name when the Romans at ‘Mount Sapo’, a popular location for animal sacrifices, discovered it. Rain mixed the animal fat residue (tallow from cattle) with the burned wood on clay and a chemical reaction occurred. Women living on the banks of the Tiber river discovered that clothes which they washed using this substance were much cleaner and cleaned with much less effort.

When making soap, there are some substances that are necessary for this process. Let’s take a look at them.

Fats – fats are oils from animals or vegetables. Animal fats are fats from beef tallow (of course this is less animal friendly and less commonly used these days). Vegetable oils that are most commonly used for soap making are olive, coconut, cocoa, and palm oils.

Lye - (Sodium Hydroxide) or another common name, caustic soda. Lye needs to be dissolved in water in order to actively react with.

Water – The best water to use for soap making is distilled water. Hard water contains minerals and salts that may interfere with this chemical reaction. It is always recommended to follow a given recipe and measure the water and the lye. Not having enough water may result in hard, dry soap, and too much water may yield too soft of a soap.

Essential oils and herbs - essential oils add fragrance to soap. In some cases skin-sensitive people use soap with no fragrance. When herbs are added to soap they add color, change the texture and contribute their qualities for relaxing and healing skin. Some herbs work as exfoliates.

Tools – Stainless steel pot (never aluminum!), 2 wooden spoons, wide mouthed glass jar (at least 2 quarts), thermometer that reads between 80’F – 110’F, shoe box or cardboard box about this size, plastic wrap, safety glasses, and rubber gloves. Avoid using these tools for eating; dedicate them only for soap making. Also clean them separately from your kitchen utensils.



First step – Making the lye solution


This step requires the most precaution. Wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves is a must. To prevent inhaling the lye fumes, it is best to do this outdoors. Start by adding lye gently to distilled cold water while stirring carefully. You shoul not use hot water to begin with, since lye heats up on it’s own in reaction to contact with the cold water and it’s undesirable for this solution to boil. Also, do not do the opposite of adding water to lye as this may cause explosion. If you see a thin layer of white crust at the bottom of the jar, keep stirring gently until all the lye is dissolved in the water.

Second Step - Melting the Fats

Melt the oils (fats) in a stainless steel pot and only when melted, begin adding olive oil while stirring well.

Third Step – Mixing the Lye Solution with the Fats

Using the safety glasses and rubber gloves, measure the temperature of lye solution and that of the oils. If the oils’ temperature is high, you can immerse this pot into a sink of cool water to slightly cool the temperature. Some soap makers suggest that the temperature of both substances should be between 100’F – 110’F. We recommend measuring between 95’F – 98’F. When both substances reach the same temperature, slowly pour the lye solution into the oils. Patiently stir until the substances are fully mixed (This may take some time. Patience is critical at this stage).

Fourth Step – Adding Fragrances, colorants and Herbs

This is when fragrances, colorants or herbs are added to the mixture. Simply follow the amounts in you recipe. There’s no exact amount of time for how long to stir, it can vary from five to forty minutes. Stir until you see ‘trace’. Trace means when you pick up the spoon and are able to draw on the surface by dripping from the spoon. A successful trace should enable you to see the drops for few seconds before they disappear back into the mixture. The mixture should be as thick as pudding.

Fifth Step – Saponification

Pour the mixture into a plastic wrap lined box or a shoebox. Cover the box with its lid and then cover the lid with a blanket. It is very important to not disturb the mixture until saponification is done. At this stage the substance is turns from a mixture into solid soap. It has to sit for 18-48 hours while it releases heat.

Sixth Step – Remodeling the Soap

After saponification, remove the lid and the blanket, and set it aside for another 12 hours. The fresh and fragrant soap is now ready to be removed from the mold. If you see a thin layer of oil and a white crust that looks like chalk, it indicates that you succeeded in making a good batch. If you see a layer, which is grossly separated, wrap it and throw it away as this batch has failed. Using rubber gloves, cut the soap into bars, or shape it like clay. You can also mold it with cookie cutters or stamp it. Set the soap aside again to cure for two to three weeks. The soap is ready to use then.



COY
Jan
10
Filed Under (Crafts) by Kert
Iris Fuchs asked:


Clay has been known as a therapeutic agent for thousands of years. Before we’ll discuss the wonderful benefits of clay to the skin when used in soap and cosmetics, let’s take a glimpse at fascinating facts about clay and its uses.

Did you know that there’s edible clay? Since clay is rich in minerals, by eating it, it increases the mineral level in the body, causing toxins to be more soluble and more easily removed from the body. Another use for clay is the ‘clay bath’. It is interesting that amidst all of the technology we’ve developed in the last century, we still turn to mother earth for health cures. Taking a clay bath effectively detoxifies the body. It cleanses the skin, a breathing organ, thoroughly and deeply. When using clay in the making of soap and cosmetics, it is always added as a cleaning agent that effectively cleanses and invigorates the skin. Below are several types of clay, most commonly used in soap and cosmetics making:

French Green Clay

French Green clay originates from quarries in France. When used in soap making, it is added as a natural colorant. French Green clay has very high levels of absorbance. Its molecular structure allows it to absorb oil, dirt and toxins from the skin. It balances oily skin to normal pH levels. It can be used daily on local acne spots and in ****** masks. Oily hair may benefit from using this clay when added to hair products.

Bentonite Clay

Bentonite clay originates from volcanic ash sediments in the United States. It is known as a soft, moisturizing clay. When a ****** mask of this clay is applied to the skin, it draws and absorbs oil, leaving the skin pure and invigorated. It is also used as a mineral supplement when it is taken orally (by eating).

White Kaolin Clay

White Kaolin is the most gentle and fine clay. When it is added to ****** masks, it works as an exfoliate and helps promote blood circulation. Because it is light and absorbent, it is added to many cosmetic products such as ****** masks, deodorants, powders, soaps and more.

Rhassul Clay

Rhassul clay originates in Morocco. Since it is very rich in minerals, it is added into spas all over the world. This type of clay is known to smoothen, relax and rejuvenate the skin.

Fuller’s Earth Clay

Because its natural properties are to draw oil from the skin, Fuller’s Earth Clay works best as a cleanser for oily skin and acne. Another property of this clay is its ability to tone down the skin and lighten it. It can be found in ****** products that help achieve a consistent skin tone.

Rose and Red Clay

Both rose and red clays are added to ****** masks and soaps. They work great as exfoliates for the face and body.

Summary

Clay, is an available natural resource which is mined or picked from the earth and benefits us wonderfully when it is added to soap and cosmetics products. It is rich in minerals, absorbs oil from the skin and revives and purifies the skin. Clay can also be used in soap as a natural colorant.

Clay is very easy to incorporate into the soap making process and can be used in the most common soap making techniques (melt & pour and cold process). During the melt & pour process it should be added after the glycerin base has melted. It is added to a little bit of melted glycerin soap base, mixed and then that mixture added to the mass soap. During the cold process, it should be added before pouring the soap into its mold. Doing this assures that the clay won’t sink to the bottom of the soap.

Clay is a great choice for an exfoliate when adding it to soap. Some clays have properties which draw oil from the skin and normalize its level. Some “drink” the oil, soak it and remove it. Other types of clay help with normal, dry and sensitive skin. Clay cleans the skin, promotes blood circulation and invigorates the skin.

Clay is an inexpensive and versatile substance that can contribute a great deal to our well being when added to personal hygiene products.



REGINALD